Custom Search

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

SPECIMEN BONSAI AT BONSAI WEST

SPECIMEN BONSAI AT BONSAI WEST

A Specimen Bonsai is a one-of-a-kind bonsai that has exceptional beauty or potential.

These trees are all old trees with good pedigree and have been passed down from the orginal bonsai artists and owners of the trees from around the world.
These specimen bonsai have been selected out of our huge inventory and are grouped by species.
We are constantly updating our listing!

Bonsai West has one of the largest selections of imported Korean Hornbeam, Japanese Azalea, Shimpaku Juniper, and a huge assortment of other fine specimen Bonsai seldom seen outside of Japan. Should any of our trees catch your eye, we are more than happy to send you additional photos and information about any particular tree you request.

Growing Fuchsia from Cuttings


Two leaf cutting ready for potting


Cuttings tray and 6 week old plant


Three stages of propagation

Make sure that the plant you are going to use for cuttings is in good condition, free from disease and pests and has been watered a few hours beforehand. Soft-tip cuttings are the best, it is not necessary to use hormone rooting powder. Peat based compost is ideal, a little vermiculite can be added if you wish.

Using a sharp knife remove cutting from stem just underneath a leaf node (cutting approx. half to one inch long according to variety ).

Hold by leaves not stem, bruising of the stem can result in failure. Place cutting into prepared compost, do not press down the compost with fingers, give the pot or tray a few taps, this is sufficient to settle the compost.

Water and place in propagator 60F - 15C. If you do not have a propagator, cover tray with clear plastic lid or pot with clear plastic bag, place in a well lit situation , but not in direct sunlight.

After approximately 3 weeks new growth will appear, get plants acclimatised from their humid growing conditions. Remove plastic lid or bag 2 or 3 times per day for a few minutes

When more growth is apparent it is time to plant into individual pots. Keep plants cool and damp but not soaking wet. Grow on in the normal way.

Preparation for a Hardy Fuchsia Bed


A Hardy Fuchsia border

Whether growing a plant yourself from a cutting or puchasing a plant from a nursery, always grow-it-on until it fills a 5 inch pot, the growing tips should have been pinched out at least once. Preparation for a hardy fuchsia border can begin the previous Autumn by digging in well rotted manure. You must remember that a plant will be in situ for many years, so preparation is important. Before planting your new fuchsias into the garden, wait until all risk of frost has gone and night temperatures are no lower than 10c/50f.

A position of dappled shade is ideal, if this is not possible don't worry. As long as the root system has plenty of moisture they will virtually thrive in any position in the garden. If you only intend planting a single plant in an established border, just prepare the planting area. Make the planting hole at least twice the size of the pot and a few inches deeper, add a sprinkling of a nitrogen type fertilizer.

Before placing plant in hole, remove any leaves on bottom of stems, 2"/3" inches. Level of garden soil will come up higher on stems than when it was in the pot, quite alright, by placing the plant deeper this will help protect the 'crown' of the fuchsia during it's first winter against frost. Water-in and make sure soil is kept moist for the first few weeks.

In late Autumn when they begin to die down you can trim them back to 18 inches (never cut them down to ground level at this stage, especially if your area is prone to frosts).

Only cut the old stems to ground level in late Spring when new growth appears at soil level. If you live in areas e.g. Zone 10 and do not really get cold winters, give them a light trim and feed, this will strengthen your plant. The only exception to cutting down to ground level is if you are growing the Magellanica type for hedging.

In late Spring when new growth appears dig in a granular type Nitrogen feed, during the summer months dig in e.g. fish,blood and bonemeal, pelleted chicken manure, or fish emulsion.

When the flowering season arrives, remove dead flowers/seed pods, then your fuchsias will continue to flower for a much longer period.

CARING FOR YOUR BONSAI

CARING FOR YOUR BONSAI

Bonsai is the Japanese art of growing beautiful trees in miniature. Almost any kind of tree or plant can be a Bonsai, with the right care and styling techniques. The important thing to remember is that a Bonsai is a tree, and has a tree’s needs. Trees respond to your care, and will thrive with your attention!

GENERAL CARE GUIDELINES:

Location:
Bonsai need direct sunlight, from which they make their food. A lack of direct sun will damage them, causing weak foliage and other problems. They like to receive 5-6 hours of sunlight daily, whether inside or outside. All Bonsai love to be outside in the warmer months (May-September), though there are many species which can be kept indoors year-round. Remember that the more sunlight and warmth your Bonsai receives, the more often it will need water.

Watering:
Proper watering is essential to the health of your tree. Bonsai like to get a little dry in between waterings, but they must never be allowed to become bone-dry. Check your Bonsai daily to see if it needs water by pressing down firmly on the moss or soil at the base of the trunk. If it feels moist or cool, or sort of soft and spongy, then it does not need water. When the topsoil feels dry, set the whole pot in a basin of water, right up to the base of the trunk, allowing water to saturate the soil. This will cause air bubbles to rise up, and the bubbles are a good indicator of how dry your tree is. The soil will be saturated very quickly; let extra water drain off.
Bonsai really don’t like to be wet all the time, nor to sit in water for long periods, it is bad for their health. During the winter months, you may be watering once a week, or even less; in the summer, it may every day or every other day, depending on location and climate. The cycle will vary, so avoid strict schedules and you will soon recognize the watering needs of your Bonsai.

Misting and air:
Any time your tree is inside, the air is very dry, and the leaves want humidity to keep them healthy and green. Mist as often as you like during the day. Definitely avoid having your Bonsai near a vent or a draft, as this will dry out the foliage. Using a pebble tray is a great way to increase local humidity. A pebble tray is a shallow tray filled with small stones. Keep some water in the bottom of the tray, making sure that the water does not reach the bottom of the Bonsai pot. As it evaporates, it helps to create a more moist environment.

Fertilizing:
Fertilizer is not quite food for plants, it is more like vitamins and minerals. As with vitamins, a small amount on a regular basis is the best plan. Most Bonsai should be mildly fertilized once or twice per month. You can use a Bonsai fertilizer, such as Pokon, at the recommended strength, or a houseplant fertilizer such as Peter’s or Miracle-Gro at half the suggested strength. Always water your tree before fertilizing. Warning: do not fertilize weak or freshly repotted trees, and don’t over-fertilize! This may burn the roots and cause stress to the tree.

Insect Prevention:
It is a good idea to spray you Bonsai tree once every month or two with a non-toxic insect spray. We recommend either Schultz-Instant houseplant spray, or Safer Insecticidal Soap. Soaps should be rinsed off the next day. Trees should not be sprayed in full sun, or when the soil is dry.


CATEGORIES OF BONSAI:

At Bonsai West, we have found it useful to group trees into three general care categories: Indoor, Temperate, and Cold Weather Bonsai, according to their natural habitats and maintenance requirements.

Following are some general rules and guidelines for Bonsai care with these categories in mind.

Indoor or Tropical Bonsai are trees which normally grow in the deep south or in tropical climates. These trees are cold-sensitive, and should not be allowed temperatures below 45 degrees F. They do not like extremely dry or arid conditions, and they want lots of sun. Tropical Bonsai may be kept on a sunny windowsill year-round. During the summer they love to be outside, but they will do well indoors. The air inside the house is very dry, so the use of a pebble tray or frequent misting is important. Tropical Bonsai like to be fertilized year-round. They will need pruning 3-4 times per year, and root pruning or repotting every 2 years in the summer.
Bonsai in this group include Serissa, Bougainvillea, Figs, Fukien Tea, Olives, Jade, Sageretia, Natal Plum, Cherries, Jasmines, Palms, Gardenia, Brazilian Raintree, Jaboticaba, Podocarpus, Ilex-Shillings, Pomegranate, Texas Ebony,Okinawa Holly, Schefflera, and Buttonwood.

Temperate Bonsai are trees which grow in regions with distinct seasonal changes. They like to be outdoors for the summer and fall, or in an open window with good sunlight and ventilation. Place them in a cool but protected area for the winter. They can generally handle a light frost, even down to 25 degrees F., but no colder than that. Gradually decreasing temperatures will put a tree into hibernation, slowing growth and storing the tree’s energy for Spring. Whenever a tree is kept at 40 degrees and above, it needs sunlight. Darkness does not make a tree go dormant.
Keep temperate Bonsai in a sunny window from late February through mid-May. Place them outside from May through mid-November. In November, bring them in to the coolest place you can find which still receives some sunlight. A grow light may be used during the winter, because the sunlight is so decreased. It is important to compensate for low humidity in winter. Use a pebble tray to keep local humidity up, and mist your tree as often as you can.

Temperate varieties include Juniper, Azalea, Boxwoods, Sawara Cypress, Tsukomo Cypress, Andelyensis Cypress, Cotoneaster, Pyracantha, Chinese Elms, Yews, Ilex Pagoda, Holly, Roses, and most Herbs.

Cold Hardy Bonsai are varieties which need a full change of season to do well. These trees cannot be grown as indoor Bonsai! From May through mid-November, keep your cold-hardy Bonsai outside, in a fairly sunny spot. Gradually decreasing temperatures will put your tree into dormancy, slowing growth and storing energy for spring. When it becomes too cold for your Bonsai to stay outdoors, move it to a protected but unheated area. Some options are a cold-frame, a garage, and enclosed porch, or a bulkhead. Be careful to avoid temperatures below 20 degrees. If you suspect that your winter location will go below that temperature, you should mulch your Bonsai in with pine needles or peat moss.
Your Bonsai can be frozen during the winter, and you must never water a frozen tree! However, you should keep an eye on the temperatures: every 4-6 weeks, there is usually a thaw, and your tree might need water at that point.
Some trees may begin to break dormancy early: begin checking on your tree in February for signs of budding. When your tree is at 40 degrees or colder, it does not need sunlight, it is fully dormant. When temperatures begin to increase, the tree will begin to wake and grow. If your tree breaks dormancy, you need to give it light: move it into the coolest possible place where it still receives some sunlight. Your Bonsai now will be needing more water, and protection from freezes. Sudden freezes can damage new growth. By May, the temperatures will have become warm enough to place your Bonsai outside again.

Evergreen varieties include Pines, Spruce, Hinoki and Blue Moss Cypress, Cryptomeria, Rhododendron, Andromeda, Hemlock, and Cedars. Among the deciduous trees are Maples, Elms, Larch, Hornbeams, Beech, Birch, and Wisteria.